Four encounters on my last day in Lesotho

Encounter 1

C-O-M-E-O-U-T!
C-O-M-E-O-U-T!

The chanting was coming from behind double-doors to my left. As young women wearing dress unusual for women in Lesotho streamed out of the room to go to lunch I stopped in my tracks to listen to a participant explain to an employee that it was a workshop on sexual orientation (actually, since they were speaking in Sesotho I heard "blah, blah, blah, sexual orientation.") In Lesotho! Fantastic!

Encounter 2

At breakfast I had heard some people speaking Swedish in a corner of the restaurant. Since they were white, and there were 2 black toddlers with them chattering to each other in a foreign language, I assemed they had adopted these children, especially since there are very few Swedes who have ever heard of Lesotho, let alone been there. I went over to talk to them and it turns out I was right. There were 2 families and they will live 200 km from each other so the children will have the opportunty to meet in the future. The couples said they were on their way home after 2 weeks of "adventures." Seeing as how they had never been to Africa, I can imagine the adventures they had dealing with the administration of adopting a child. Even getting a taxi in Africa for the unitiated can be an adventure!

Encounter 3

After breakfast I walked down to the golf course to play a round of golf. One of my colleagues had kindly arranged for me to borrow a set of ladies clubs for the day. In Africa you always have to have a caddie, whether you want one or not. Mine was a nice kid who knows that I don't like a lot of unsolicited swing lessons while on the course (on the driving range is another story). They call women of a certain age "Meh" (like the "Ma" of Ma Ramotswe of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency in Botswana). So he would politely try to encourage me or compliment me based on how well I was doing, ever mindful of his tip I am sure (unlike the unwise ballboy in Bangladesh - there you had to have a ballboy AND a caddie. God forbid the player or the caddie should have to look for a ball - who actually said to me: "Maam, you are very good on the green, but you are very bad on the fairway." He obviously wasn't thinking of his tip. But I digress). Anyway, at one point when I was having a bad streak but trying to look on the bright side, I said to my caddie: "Well, at least I'm not duffing the ball." To which he responded in all seriousness, "Oh Meh it makes me so happy you are not duffing the ball!" So there you go. I made one person happy yesterday!

Encounter 4

After an exhausting 18 holes on the brown, dry course, I stopped by an open-air crafts market. There is a cooperative of women living with AIDS that makes beautiful jewlery out of recycled glass. There was a Peace Corps volunteer there who is helping them with their finances and marketing. He agreed that Lesotho is a pretty cushy place to be stationed. Its certainly very different from my post in Chad over 20 years ago. It's such a beautiful country. It's surprising its not overrun with tourists.

2 miles high

Grand Lake, Colorado
Elevation 8,437 feet (about 3,000 meters)
Temperature: 75 F

The Thomsen Family Reunion 2010 has gathered my siblings, our kids, spouses (spice?) and parents from San Francisco, Las Vegas, Walla Walla, Chicago, Milwaukee and Stockholm. There are 23 of us hanging out in cabins about 2 miles from the entrance to the Rocky Mountain National Forest. We've spent the last few days swimming, horseback riding, hiking, and hanging out with family. This morning I played 18 holes of golf. The air at this altitude is crippling however. It doesn't matter how good shape one is in, walking up 10 steps has you bent over catching your breath.

We took a walk along the Colorado River and saw coyote spoor, bear scratches on a tree, and paw prints from coyote and moose. Unfortunately, half of the trees in the park are dead because of the Pine Beetle. They carry a fungus that destroys mature pines (mostly Ponderosa here) but leave the new saplings alone. So the hope is that when all of the mature trees die, the young ones will grow up in their place. The danger though is all of the millions of acres of deadwood that will pose an immense fire hazard.

We drove over the Continental Divide at about 12,000 feet. Rain that falls on the East side of the Divide eventually flows into the Atlantic and rain that falls on the West side flows into the Pacific. The scenery is incredibly beautiful above the treeline.

Oh, Oregon!

Portland, Oregon
Temperature: 86 F

We have had a fantastic time in Oregon. Here are some memories we will take home with us:

Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock: The sun is shining through the mist as we land on the beach at about noon. We throw off our clothes and run around in our swimsuits. We walk up and down the beach. I notice that I am the only individual over 10 years of age wearing a swimsuit. No, it was not a nudist beach, they all had clothes on! I was told that Oregonians don't wear swimsuits on the beach. That was weird. We had a wonderful time though. My family used to come to this beach on vacations so it brought back memories...

Multnomah Falls: One of the highest freefalling falls in the U.S. We climbed up to the top of Horsetail Falls and bathed in the water. The falls start from a mountain spring and not from melted snow as we thought. The view over the Columbia was awe-inspiring. One of the most beautiful places we have visited.

Portland: Powells Bookstore, the largest bookstore in the world! And tandem biking on the greenway along the Willamette River. Portland is the most bike-friendly city in the world!

Our next stop is Grand Lake, CO for a family reunion.

Oh, Columbia, the Gem of the Ocean!

Skamokawa, Washington (population 400)
Air temperature: 85 F.
Water temperature: 68 F.

We are staying with old friends from college (Polo Reunion!) on this bucolic farm in the Columbia River Basin. The Columbia River is the 4th largest river in the U.S. It starts in Canada and ends about 34 miles from here in the Pacific Ocean. Alcyon Farm is about 3 miles from the river situated in a beautiful valley. In the first 24 hours on the farm and kayaking on the river we saw the following wildlife:

Great Blue heron
Osprey
Double-crested Cormorant
Big Brown Bats
Barn Swallows
Violet Green Swallows
Tree Swallows
Purple Martins
Pacific Jumping Mouse
Various farm animals such as chickens, dog, cat, and sheep.

Kayaking on the river (Fredrika and I shared a kayak) was an amazing experience. There was apparently a seal in the water near us but I didn't see him.

Some history: From Skamokowa, Lewis and Clark looked over the Columbia (which they thought was the ocean) and said "Ocean in view, oh the joy!" But since they had 34 miles to go it was just wishful thinking.

Forty percent of wheat produced in the country is transported along the river and it produces the most hydroelectricity in the U.S. Unfortunately, the dams have decimated the salmon population.

Tahoe!

Lake Tahoe
Air temperature: 82 F.
Water temperature: 64 F.

The second deepest lake in the U.S. (Crater Lake in Oregon is the deepest). Beautifully deep, blue and clear, it is a joy to see and swim in. We visited friends who rent a cabin on the water. Kicking back on the deck, drinking a rum runner, one can easily think one was in heaven...and because of the altitude (over 6,000 feet, or 2,000 meters), the air feels about as thin as heaven. I swam out to some rocks just about 500 meters away and when I swam back the waves had picked up and I started feeling short of breath because of the altitude. Scary...

California Dreamin'

July 20, 2010
Santa Cruz, CA
75 F

Being back in the Bay Area is always a trip down memory lane. When I get on the 8-lane highways my brain goes into autopilot and I feel as comfortable as a farmer driving her combine. This time, though I was disappointed because my old favorite radio stations (classic rock of course), KSJO and KOME, were gone. What is happening to this world?

For the 4 days we were there (staying in Campbell) I just went around with a big grin on my face. I was so happy to be back where everyone says hi when they pass you on the street, and no one is afraid to look you in the eye even if they don't know you.

There are a lot of things I like about California but there are a few that are simply tragic: like the state of the real estate market (disastrous) and the proliferation of drugs for example. Crystal methamphetamine ("meth") has completely taken over and destroyed countless families. Santa Cruz was always a fairly nutty beach bum town when I was growing up but now meth is accountable for 30% of all crime in the county and 35% of all child custody cases. It really feels like the country is losing the war on drugs here.

Wisconsin Dells - Waterparkmania

Weather report at noon today: 82F (27C) and 69% humidity.

My daughter loves water and naturally begged me to take her to a waterpark. I hate waterparks, especially indoor ones, so naturally I decided if we were going to do it, we were going to do it right. We went to the Wisconsin Dells (about a 2 hour drive from Milwaukee) and spent 8 hours at Noah's Ark: "The LARGEST WATERPARK IN AMERICA!!!" I was afraid the name of the park would be prophetic and it would rain or I would end up wishing it would rain but it actually was really fun. Luckily it was hot because we ran around an amusement park in our swimsuits and bare feet all day. Most rides were totally fine for a middle-aged mom and a 9 year old child. On only one of them (a rubber saucer that they stick you in and then push you over what feels like a cliff onto a giant skateboard ramp that you slide down one side and up the other, hanging on for dear life) did my bloodcurling screams make a whole line of teenagers mock me in laughter. But it was okay! My favorite part was actually seeing a Sponge Bob Squarepants movie in "4-D" - in our bathing suits of course! I have an unexplainable love of Sponge Bob and my guffaws were surely the loudest of anyone in the theater.

My ex-colleague Dave in North Carolina asked me what one should do with a few days in Milwaukee in August. Well Dave, here are some suggestions of "typical" Milwaukeean things go do (mostly foody things since I guess you are working in the daytime):

1. Vist a Polish restaurant, like Polonez
2. Eat beer n brats at a pub in the third ward
3. Buy some brats to take home from Usinger's
4. Got to the Milwaukee Public Market downtown
5. Go to any restaurant or pub on a Friday for a Milwaukee Fish Fry (or The Comet Cafe on Farwell on any day of the week)
6. See a Brewer's game if they are in town
7. Take a walk/jog on the lake (you can also rent bikes/rollerblades/kites) there
8. Go to a festival (like Irishfest Aug 19-22)
9. Visit the Milwaukee Art Museum. If you don't like art, just go look at the building (Quadracci Pavillion), designed by Santiago Calatrava.
10. Go to a German restaurant, like Karl Ratzsch's Restaurant

If you have a couple of days off and have the kids with you then, of course, go to a waterpark!