Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Are the Basotho doomed to die out?

One cannot be in Lesotho for more than a couple of days without the topic of HIV/AIDS coming up. The country has the dubious honor of having the 3rd highest HIV prevalence rate in the world (after Swaziland and Botswana). With one-quarter of the population infected with HIV, and 60 new infections EVERY DAY, the consequences are obviously enormous, and not just on the economy. I was told by an official in charge of HIV /AIDS here that at one point they were so overwhelmed they assumed that the whole population would eventually die of AIDS. There are almost 100,000 AIDS orphans in Lesotho (19% of all children in the country), so maybe they weren't far off.

Only 15 years ago the prevalence was "only" 5%. The reason for the high prevalence and its rapid spread are similar to other countries in the region: multiple sexual partners at the same time, low condom use, older men preying on younger women, and poverty. Low male circumcision rates are probably also a contributor.

The strange thing is that one doesn't hear the word HIV in society here. There are "testing centers" and people die young but noone talks about how. There are not many older people working in the Ministry of Health. I guess they are all dead. And yet people keep going on with their lives. They seem happy. They work and carry on. They don't talk about it much. It's spooky but a testament to human nature.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Lesotho- the Mountain Kingdom

I'm in the Kingdom of Lesotho. A tiny mountainous country completely encircled by South Africa (like Swaziland). The self-proclaimed "Switzerland of Africa." Population 1.8 million. Being in the Southern hemisphere it is winter here now and cold. The weirdest thing is seeing the maple (!) leaves turning color. I have never seen maple trees or leaves turning color in Africa, having spent 20 years living and traveling to countries with a much warmer climate. Apparently it gets down to minus 10 celsius in August. That doesn't feel like Africa! The explanation of course is that the country varies between 2,000 and 3,000 meters elevation. No wonder I feel like Bugs Bunny on ether when I try to jog here!

Lesotho gained independance from the British (it was a protectorate) in 1966. Before that it was called Basutoland. People here are very friendly and open, except to the Chinese, who have started running a lot of the garment factories that are popping up all over. Apparently, the Basotho (the word for people who live in Lesotho. And they speak Sesotho) resent the Chinese for buying up factories although they pay taxes like everyone else and provide jobs to the unemployed.

Addendum: I was later told that resentment stems from reportedly poor standards and wages for workers from the Chinese owners.